Wide-eyed and jaw stretching yawns are a sign of an anxious dog. The Sisters (as we like to call them) Pinta and Soozi were experiencing their first car ride. I was sitting in the back seat to help them balance against the bouncing rock-strewn road that leads us out to more inhabited communities. Pinta and Soozi were stepping about like drunken sailors in an attempt to brace themselves against the chaotic movement. Their noses were sniffing the scents of unknown territory. Ears perking up when they noticed a cow or dog by the side of the road. In all, they remained calm and curious as the miles rolled on and by the time we hit pavement, they were settling cautiously on the towel draped over the seat.
Michael and I had an ambitious day planned. The Sisters’ healthy future was a part of this trip. And the state of “health” of the our vehicle (as judged by the Costa Rican government) was at stake. The first objective was to have the Sisters spayed and the 2nd objective was to complete “El Riteve.” (Cue ominous, thunderous rumble.) The dreaded Riteve is a curse for every Tico or Gringo who owns a vehicle. Each year, every car, truck, motorcycle, ATV or any vehicle that travels on public roads is subject to a full mechanical inspection by the employees of Riteve. This was the first year that Michael was “going solo.” The last couple of years, our friend, Roy has gone with Michael. Some Gringos hire a Tico to take their car, thinking that the inspectors will be more amenable to a Tico. However, lots of Ticos run into interference during their inspections too. The Government’s goal with Riteve is to ensure that every car on the road is safe. The Government issues car insurance and in my opinion, that as the insurer, they are allowed to ensure that the product being insured is viable. The registration for our 4WD had to be renewed this month as our vehicle license ends in a 5, ergo, May is the month for renewal. You can renew up to 30 days in advance and the Riteve’s nearest location in our area is Cuidad Neilly, an hour and half drive. On May 1, it moves to a location 2 hours away and in June, the next location is 4 hours away. You can understand that time was of the essence.
The Sisters officially joined our household a week ago; they had visited us off and on since Salty’s death. In the last month, they were hanging about almost all day with occasional sleepovers in the dog beds that we’d made for Salty.
Our friend Jorge, who bred the dogs, was moving to a new farm on a very busy road. His concern that the Sisters were so rambunctious and with no experience of trafficked roads that they’d get hit by passing cars. M and I were more than happy to accept his gift of these 2 loving and spirited dogs. My heart still misses Salty and the Sisters joyful energy and playfulness brighten our lives.
M and I nicknamed these two as “The Sisters” when Salty was still alive. All three are from the same litter and after Salty came to live with us, the three spent many hours together; roaming the forest, taking dips in the creek or wrestle-chasing in the flowering clover in front of the house. These year-old puppies are dear to our hearts. Yikes! The trip to the “Big City” (Cuidad Neilly is not more than 1,000 people.) was a traumatic experience. We took them to a Vet recommended by friends. The Sisters had never been in a car and never been inside a building. Getting out of the car near the Vet’s building, the Sisters were inundated with new oily smells and scary noises of trucks, cars, motorcycles streaming by the sidewalk. As we approached the front entrance, the puppies became very tentative. Jorge taught them to never enter through his cabin door. And we have never invited them inside our house. Going through a door and into an enclosed space is a very scary endeavor. And as all pets instinctively, universally sense, the vet’s office is a ‘You’re gonna have to drag me in there against my will” Zone.
The Vet was kind and efficient. You take a number on arrival and wait to be called. We arrived at 8:30 and our ticket was #7. He spayed at least 2 dogs before us. And did 2 neuters. It is quite a production line. It has only been in the last few years that Ticos started to spay/neuter their dogs. In the last 10 years, private organizations run mostly by Gringos have encouraged Ticos to sterilize cats and dogs. Vets have traveling clinics to reach rural areas and sometimes will perform the operation for free. Ticos, especially in the rural areas, consider dogs and cats as disposible. Many Ticos use their dogs for hunting wild boar. The “havelina” is a dangerous and vicious animal and often the dogs are killed. So Ticos keep and breed their females, in order to have an inexhaustible supply of dogs. They rarely give enough feed to keep their dogs healthy.
This Vet is very practiced in spaying, he didn’t ask any info from me other than the dogs’ age. No paperwork, no records. He spayed, clipped toenails and removed an embedded lump from Soozi’s head in 45 minutes. After the operation, I saw my two sweet girls lying on the floor. Pinta was barely conscious and Soozi (always the Energizer Bunny) was lifting her head and moving her tail in order to get her leaden body up. She looked at me with anxiety as if to say, “what is going on here and how do I get outside again.”
Michael’s appointment for the inspection was 11 am and (as to be expected) the car didn’t pass. The alignment was off. Michael knows a local mechanic and he took it to him to fix, then returned to the inspection. After a 3 hour wait for the reiinspection, it still didn’t pass. Not terribly surprising as the local mechanic didn’t have any alignment equipment. He went under the car with some wrenches and emerged to declare that it would pass.
Meanwhile the Vet let the dogs stay in his air conditioned surgery for 2 hours. By 2:30 pm, Michael was still waiting at Riteve while Pinta, Soozi and I were ‘out on the street.’ The dogs were recovered enough from the tranquilizer to walk. With the trauma of the past couple of hours, all of the noise and traffic whizzing by further terrified them. I walked them over to a place away from the worst of the traffic and Pinta sank down in the long grass for protection and respite. Finally, Michael came to fetch us and the Sisters felt safe and secure in the back seat of the truck.
The issue remaining was the deadline for re-inspection of the alignment. Riteve was in Cuidad Neilly for just one more day. On the way home, we passed through Paso Canoas and went to an official alignment mechanic. We asked the mechanic if the dogs could stay in the car and the mechanic said, “No problema.” As the hydraulic lift carried the car upward, we could see Pinta’s little face looking out the window. She seemed curious and unconcerned.
Car repair in Costa Rica is a “group” effort. We’d spent 8 hours the week before at this same garage while another mechanic replaced ball joints, struts, brakes and I forget what else. A mechanic has an open air bay covered by a corrugated iron roof and a hydraulic lift. Mechanics don’t carry parts. Once the issue is determined, the vehicle owner will go up the road, sometimes with the mechanic to purchase parts. Since this was a very complex repair, Michael had to return to the parts store 2 more times that day. He borrowed a bike that a guy had in the garage to ride up to the parts store. Meanwhile, I watched a lot of Spanish language TV in the slightly air conditioned waiting room. (Thank goodness for that.) Michael stayed outside next to the repair bay, in case the mechanic needed more parts or ask a question.
With the truck properly aligned, we arrived home after 12 hours and the Sisters scarfed up a bowl of food. It had been 24 hours since their last meal. Then they gingerly lay down in their beds and dropped to sleep.
Michael practically did the same. As he had to be up at 4:00 am to leave for another trip back to Cuidad Neilly. He wanted to be at the Riteve by 6 am when they open. He was not alone when he arrived. A Gringo that he met in line yesterday who lives in Puerto Jimenez was there too. Turns out that he golfs and has played the 11 hole course that is located about a 2 hour drive away. (The only course in the Southern Zone.) They are making plans to play a round some time soon. Get your vehicle fixed and make friends along the way.
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